Smoke Bluffs / FMCBC lands
SAS Statement on Potential Sale of Smoke Bluffs Lands by Federation of Mountain Clubs of BC (FMCBC) to the District of Squamish (DoS)
POSITION
SAS supports the negotiation process that is ongoing between the FMCBC and the DoS. Based on the information available, the negotiations appear to be operating in good faith, and most importantly, have the aim of protecting climbing in the Smoke Bluffs for the long term. It must be highlighted that this process is a comprehensive review of all options and will not necessarily result in the sale of the FMCBC lands. That is only one of the options.
SAS is neither opposed to or in support of one specific outcome of this review, only that it ensures that climbing be preserved in the Smoke Bluffs for all future generations.
During these negotiations, our mandate will be to advocate for climbing access in the Smoke Bluffs Park. Further, we will ensure that the review examines all options and considers the current situation in Squamish and any potential threats to the Smoke Bluff Park that may occur in the future.
BACKGROUND.
First, it must be highlighted that the sale/transfer of the FMCBC lands to the DoS has been discussed since the initial purchase of these lands and is part of the Smoke Bluffs Management Plan of 2017.
The 2020 sale of the Drenka lands along the Blind Channel in the Smoke Bluffs (Zip crag area) triggered a renewed discussion between the FMCBC and the DoS. Up until the end of 2020, these negotiations were preliminary. As such, neither side commented publicly, which fuelled speculation about the reasons for the sale and the process.
CURRENT FMCBC STATED POSITION AND OUTLINE OF REVIEW PROCESS.
The below information is quoted directly from an FMCBC letter to Chris Ludwig, one of the concerned individuals who opposes the sale. It is publicly available on Chris’ website, Backcountry BC.
What follows are extracts from both these sources with SAS highlights.
The original reason for purchasing the land remains - to protect the crags for climbing and provide permanent access for the climbing community- and have continued to guide the FMCBC's decisions with respect to the lands. Any agreement with the District of Squamish will incorporate these as essential requirements.
In the fall of 2020, the District approached the FMCBC with a proposal to incorporate the FMCBC lands into a park with the Smoke Bluffs crags. To assist the FMCBC Board of Directors in its consideration of the proposal, the Board has provided a mandate to a committee to meet with staff from the District of Squamish to review the proposal and make recommendations to the Board. The committee's mandate, as approved by the Board, is as follows:
To meet with representatives of the District of Squamish to review the District's proposal and the four-step process contemplated by the District (SAS: See below for details.)
To evaluate the District's proposal with respect to the long-standing objectives of the FMCBC Lands, including but not limited to consideration of the following:
Value of the FMCBC Lands.
Alternate transfer options, including but not limited to, sale or donation of the FMCBC Lands as a whole or in part to the District of Squamish to safeguard climbers' access.
Mechanisms to ensure long-term protection of the crags and climbers' access, including but not limited to rezoning, restrictive covenants, and option to purchase.
Nature and timing of any legal advice required to evaluate the proposal or protective mechanisms and estimated legal fees.
Nature and timing of required consultations with the climbing community about any proposed disposition of the FMCBC Lands to the District of Squamish.
To consider the use, reservations, or restrictions on the use of any proceeds from the FMCBC Lands.
To make recommendations to the FMCBC Board on the District's proposal, including acceptance, rejection, or negotiations to be undertaken with the District. If further negotiations are recommended, the parameters for such negotiations.
To make recommendations to the FMCBC Board regarding successor organization(s) to hold the FMC Lands in trust for the benefit of the greater climbing community should the FMCBC retain ownership of the FMC Lands.
To report to the FMCBC Board on the Committee's progress on a quarterly basis, unless developments warrant more frequent reporting.
The FMCBC will consult with its Member-Clubs and the wider climbing community prior to making a final decision.
The final decision will be made by FMCBC based on the merits of the proposal and the strength of the commitments to preserve the crags and current access to the crags for climbers - the original reasons why the FMCBC acquired the lands.
UPDATE: On 5 Feb, the FMCBC emailed an information letter and invitation to comment to their member clubs. Attached here. It covers much of the same information as the letter to Chris Ludwig.
DOS COMPREHENSIVE APPROACH TO PRESERVING THE RECREATION INTERESTS OF THIS PARK
This four-step process is referenced in the letter above. It has been shared by the DoS with the FMCBC and local media. It best illustrates the process on the DoS side, and the protections that they envision for the park.
See Linked PDF
The protection outlined in item 4 is particularly important. "Approval from the electorate (not simply a Council decision) is required through a referendum or alternative approval process to repeal a park dedication bylaw." SAS will share the bylaw when it is available.
NEXT STEPS
During the Smoke Bluffs Park Committee (DoS) meeting of 28 Jan (Agenda link,) restructuring of the committee was discussed. Currently, climbers are represented on the Committee by SAS, CASBC, and the FMCBC. There has been concern in the past over DoS attempts to dilute the voice of climbing on the committee. Restructuring has the potential to change the balance and function of the committee. That could be positive or negative for the voice of climbing. When the minutes of the meeting become public, SAS will share them and comment on the potential impacts.
SAS will continue to advocate with the FMCBC and the DoS on this matter. Our next step is to attend a meeting with the FMCBC Sub-Committee in the coming weeks to keep up to date on their findings and negotiations. SAS will share all available information through our channels.