Squamish Access Society

Several recent events within the Stawamus Provincial Park have led BC Parks staff and others to ask what actions should be taken to address activities that may lead to damage of existing climbing routes as well as endangerment of the non-climbing public.

Specifically, this has been in the context of new route development and retro-cleaning.  I would like to take this opportunity to clarify that the Squamish Access Society is not seeking to have charges laid against anyone with respect to these activities.  Any discussion that has occurred regarding the laying of charges against any specific route developer(s) has occurred outside of SAS or our Climbing Advisory Group (CRAG).

The SAS does not want to see this kind of enforcement from BC Parks, and would prefer a consensus driven community approach, with the backing of BC Parks, to deal with these issues.  Upon speaking directly with BC Parks on this matter, it is clear to me that they too do not want to start charging anyone, including climbers, for activities that do not comply with the BC Parks Act.  That being said, the SAS cannot stop BC Parks from making what it deems necessary changes to its regulatory framework.

Via CRAG and other avenues, SAS is actively engaged with BC Parks to find an amicable solution to the
recent events that have led some to feel legal action is required.  I hope our work will lead to a system that is favourable to all concerned and will alleviate any issues there might be with new route development within the three BC Parks in the Squamish area.

Questions and comments can be made here through our website.

Regards,

Charlie Harrison, P.Eng.
President
Squamish Access Society

We have received news from BC Parks that the 2010 falcon closure we reported on here will be lifted as of July 9 2010.  All previously closed routes are open for climbing as of that date.

The Squamish Access Society and The Climber Access Society of BC are organizing a trail day during the Squamish Mountain Festival.  The event is held in partnership with Arc’teryx,  Mountain Equipment Co-op and BC Parks.

What: a half-day of trail and boulder maintenance and garbage collection
Where: Apron Parking Lot, Stawamus Provincial Park
When: meet 9am Saturday July 17th 2010  for coffee, muffins and a briefing

There will be a post event prize raffle for all volunteers including the chance to win one of two crash pads!

Don’t forget to bring:

• Sturdy footwear and gloves
• Appropriate clothing
• Lunch
• Water
• Cell phones, sunscreen, etc…

This year’s festival, which runs July 14th to the 18th, promises to be bigger and better than ever.  Check out the following press release and for more info visit squamishmountainfestival.com.

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

International climbing destination hosts Squamish Mountain Festival.
Celebrate with Royal Robbins, Barry Blanchard and climbing funny man, Cedar Wright, July 14-18.

SQUAMISH, British Columbia (June 29, 2010) – With less than two weeks to go, Squamish is ready to celebrate its internationally renowned climbing culture with some of the sport’s biggest names at the Squamish Mountain Festival.  Films and speakers will be featured at the Eagle Eye Theatre, Squamish, British Columbia, Canada, from July 14 to 18, 2010.

Canadian alpinist Barry Blanchard, Yosemite big wall pioneer Royal Robbins, and crack climbing funny man Cedar Wright, are some of the highlights on the roster of presenters who have survived decades of wild adventures and near misses, and have stories to share about their vertical lifestyles. Also presenting at the festival will be Jason Kruk, Tommy Caldwell and Rob Pizem. Each night will feature climbing and mountain adventure films from around the globe.

The festival opens Wednesday, July 14 at the Eagle Eye Theatre in Squamish with legendary Canadian alpinist, Barry Blanchard. After three decades in the climbing game, Blanchard is a well-known raconteur, writer and mentor. He has been described as “a mountaineer so revered that aspiring alpinists pin his photo in their high school lockers.” Despite the high-level adulation, Blanchard maintains a down-to-earth sense of humour.

“Barry has been a respected member of a small group of very elite alpine climbers for years,” says festival director Ivan Hughes, “and he’s still out there guiding on a regular basis so its been tough trying to get him out here for the festival.”

The Steep Shot Photo Contest takes place Thursday, July 15. This is showcase of the best shooters in the biz and sells out every year! Six photographers are asked to produce a slideshow of their best climbing or climbing related photography. The slide shows are judged and the top 3 presentations are awarded cash prizes.

Friday, July 16 is the Big Wall Climbing Night and features a presentation from Yosemite big wall pioneer Royal Robbins.  Robbins’ accomplishments as rock climber are many. An early advocate of bolt-less, piton-less, clean climbing, Robbins did much to transform climbing culture to minimize the human impact on the vertical wilderness and protect its natural features. As a rock-climbing pioneer, he broke through existing standards to create wholly new skill and difficulty levels. In the 50s, 60s, and into the 70s, Robbins established one daring new climb after another, among them many revered classics on Yosemite’s Half Dome and El Capitan.

On the Alpine Climbing Night, Saturday, July 17, the festival welcomes back Cedar Wright who first presented at the festival in 2008. Cedar learned climbing at the age of 21 on Northern California’s majestic sea cliffs. While he worked toward his B.A. in English from Humboldt State, he quickly progressed as a climber and was soon establishing numerous first-ascent free climbs throughout the area. After earning his degree he started wintering in Joshua Tree and spending the rest of the year in Yosemite, where he became an accomplished free soloist, speed climber, aid climber and free climber.

“We wanted to bring Cedar back because he’s been doing so many incredible climbs lately and filming lots of his adventures,” says Hughes, “a lot of other climbers are out there doing presentations these days but few are as entertaining, enlightening and at the same time hilarious as Cedar, we just had to get him back here.”

The Squamish Mountain Festival is presented by Arc’teryx. Tickets are available in Squamish at Climb On, Valhalla Pure, the Squamish Adventure Centre and online at www.squamishmountainfestival.com.

BC Parks has issued a list of climbs that should not be climbed for 2010:

• Negro Lesbian
• Europa above pitch 2
• Millenium Falcon above pitch 2
• The Gauntlet above pitch 2
• Supernaut above pitch 2
• Planet Caravan above pitch 2
• Clean Corner
• Sports Illustrated
• Warriors of the Wasteland above pitch 2
• Western Dihedral above pitch 2
• Stone Free
• Men Holding Hands above the first 5.12 pitch
• Brothers in Arms above the first 5.12 pitch
• Freeway above the 10c pitch traverse
• Crescent Ramp
• Cannabis Wall above pitch 2

Further information and a photograph is available in this Falcon Closure 2010 Notice.

As was reported in April, the Stawamus/Indian Forest Service road has been re-opened.  It is the gateway FSR to the Habrich/Skypilot area.  Check out this thread from squamishclimbing.com for some more information on how best to access the area given the latest developments.

Here are some updates on what is new in the Smoke Bluffs Park.  A huge thank you goes out to the Smoke Bluffs Park Committee (SBC), its chair Brian Moorhead, the myriad of volunteers active in the park and the District of Squamish.

1. Final phase of the loop trail, the upper loop, is now complete. This provides an all season route through the Bluffs, passing close to most of the important crags, and suitable for the general hiking and running public. Additionally the lower loop near Spiderfly has had the choke point graded and stairs added.
2. Due to the efforts of local cragkeepers and route developers, Funorama is poised to become one of the most popular crags in the Bluffs.  Thanks to Harry Young, Robin Barley and Alan Stevenson among others.   A good number of non standard anchors have been upgraded.
3. Harry Young did a fantastic job of cleaning up Call It a Day. The SBC crag work group with SAS support added a number of anchors, and plans are afoot to have the landing area machine graded as part of the loop trail.  The intent is to create a really user-friendly teaching crag for large beginner groups, plus provide easy crack climbs suitable for beginning trad leaders.
4. Another bike rack has been placed at the base of Burgers and Fries. These are starting to see good use so look for an additional one at Tunnel Rock area in the future.
5. A new information Kiosk has been installed at the Kids Park area near Neat and Cool. New updated maps will be installed at both Kiosks by early summer.
6. The District of Squamish has approved the development of a protocol by the SBC to better manage film industry activities in the Park.  This is a result of increased interest and use by the film industry, and pressure by the SAS over the last few years for agencies to strike a balance between the obvious benefits of the industry being welcome in Squamish and the interests of climbers and recreationalists.

The SAS has continued to liaise with Parks on the 2010 Falcon Closure issue.

Parks has been monitoring a falcon presence on the Grand Wall to the right of belly good ledge but to date has not confirmed nesting behaviour.  As a result, there are currently (as of May 8th 2010) no closures in effect.  It is the evidence of nesting behaviour which triggers any closures.  Climbers are asked to call 604-898-3678 ext 2221 with any information.

In coordination with the SAS, in 2009 BC Parks completed work on the trail at the base of the Chief.  It is now far easier to navigate the stretch between Rutabega (especially just below the black Dyke area) all the way north to Seasoned in the Sun (where the drainage approach has been replaced with a series of switchbacks).  The SAS would like to thank BC parks and the now completed Sea to Sky Highway Improvement Project for engaging climbers on this front and we look forward to further cooperation with the province and the municipality of Squamish following the roadmap of the Squamish Climbing Strategy Report.

The improvement of trails for climbers under the combined initiative of SAS, SSHIP and Parks includes:

• the new Apron Connector trail between the apron parking lot and the old highway road bed
• improved delineation of north wall trails
• improved condition of Apron Descent Trail
• improved condition of trail to Shannon Falls and Gobsmacking crags
• improved Chief base trail

The SAS is aware of changes which occurred last year in the running of the campground at the Chief.  In particular the payment regime, definition of “parties”, and mode of collection were altered to bring the park more in line with provincial policy.  This was met with less than universal approval. The vast majority of users are climbers who arrive by various modes of transport (foot, car, bus, bike) and tying the definition of a “party” to vehicles has not been easy to understand or implement.  The absence of a self-payment (replaced by early morning collection calls) has also been challenging.

In a meeting in July 2009, the SAS voiced its concerns about the changes, in particular what it meant to what until then had been heralded as a unique and welcoming environment for climbers around the world.  Parks committed to a re-assessment after the “test” season was complete.  The SAS appreciates that the park needs to be run in accordance with provincial government mandates, however would like to explore avenues to maintain a climber friendly and accessible environment.

The SAS is meeting, in conjunction with the Access Society (of BC), with BC parks and the new park contractor prior to the 2010 campground opening to explore ways that Parks can meet its requirements as set out by the province, and ways in which the payment regime can be modified to best accommodate the realities of the majority of users.