Squamish Access Society

The SAS AGM, held last month in Squamish, was a resounding success. Four climbers, and members of the SAS, were the recipients of the door prizes provided by Mountain Equipment Co-op. Thanks to this who came out. Looking forward to seeing you out there on the rock and at next year’s AGM.

It has come to the attention of the climbing community that the area between the Mamquam Forest Service Road and the Stawamus River, roughly below the trailheads for Angel’s Crest and the Sheriff’s Badge, have been used all summer as an unofficial climbers’ campground. Squamish residents (non-climbers) are up in arms about the garbage that’s been left behind, and rightly so. The rain is coming, the river will rise, and the salmon will start running into the mess.

A community clean-up is being organized for this coming Saturday, October 13th. We are asking that anyone who can spare an hour please come out and chip in. We need to show that we care, that all climbers are not so thoughtless when it comes to caring for the environment. Bring a garbage bag and gloves, and show up around 11:00am. Spread the word, please.

The Squamish Access Society’s annual general meeting is set for Sunday, October 21st at the Garibaldi Room in the Howe Sound Inn and Brewpub.

The meeting is from 7:00pm to 9:00pm and will update interested members on the SAS’s accomplishments over the past year, as well as allow people to have input on a variety of issues. Plus, free swag! Don’t miss it!

The Falcon Closure on the Grand Wall of the Stawamus Chief has now been lifted and all routes are open to climbing. For more information, please see the BC Parks website.

SAS continues to have strong representation on the the Smoke Bluff Park Advisory Committee of Council with Brian Moorhead serving as Deputy Chair and Todd Gerhart as a Member at Large. The current  Chair is local climber and mountain biker, Matt Parker, who is a long time member of SAS, as are the majority of the other  Committee members.

The following trail work has been completed in the last 12 months…..

• LUMBERLAND TRAIL which provides quick access via Crag X and Lumberland to the upper park.
• VIEWPOINT TRAIL This trail has been extended to Penny Lane (Fern gully) via Split Beaver,Pink Cliff and Fern Gully. New stair work has been installed in the gully.

The following crags have received considerable restoratio / new route development….

• LUMBERLAND    Alan Stevenson, Erika Olson and friends.
• CABIN BOYS OFFICE   John and Carol Harvey and friends.
• RESPIRATION ROCK     Lucas Cormier
• OTHER   A number of  routes were  included in Phase #3 of the SAS Bolt replacement.

Various levels of assistance was provided by SAS in the form of brushes, tools,  anchor  enhancement hardware donated cleaning ropes etc.

SAS recruited various work parties to deal with the inevitable debris  at the above projects. Brian Moorhead led groups from Canadian Forces, UBC Varsity Outdoor Club and the staff / students from the Trek program.   Funorama is good example of the hard work of these volunteers.

Helen Habgood, FMC Rep. on the Committee, donated her professional skills to produce updated mapping for the Park.

It should be noted that there will be Park contractors working in various areas in the lower Park between the parking lot and Tunnel Rock over the summer months. This may result in brief closures to allow mini-excavator work by Keith Halverson.

Finally, please help SAS to maintain good relationships with the residents of Hospital Hill by parking at the official lot off Loggers Lane. If that is full, it is a brief hike from the Adventure Centre overflow lot.

SAS is happy to announce completion of Phase 3 of our re-bolting efforts. In addition to the already announced efforts the following details the work completed in this phase.

As before, every effort was made to minimize visual damage to the rock including pulling existing hardware (rather than chopping), use of existing holes for new bolts when possible or camouflaging the old holes with epoxy, and overdrilling the new holes to facilitate future replacement. In addition, SAS would like to gratefully acknowledge the efforts of Colin Moorhead at Squamish Rock Guides and Andre Ike at Westcoast Mountain Guides for their contribution to this work.

The content of the report is below for your viewing pleasure.

The Smoke Bluffs

Burgers and Fries

Pink Panther 11c dust marks from new bolts. Holes patched.

Peaches and Cream 10a and Genetically Superior 11aDust marks from new bolts. Holes Patched.

Over 40 11aDust marks from new bolts. Holes patched.

Digital Dexterity

New bolts and ½ inch anchor

Smoke Bluffs – In Addition Without Photos

• Super Value 10c 2 new protection bolts
• Geritol 10c (Neat and Cool) 2 new protection bolts
• House Music 10c (Neat and Cool) 2 new protection bolts

All holes patched.

Murrin – Nightmare Rock

• And Metal for All 11d 7 new protection bolts, anchor bolts and chains (no photos)
• Big Daddy Overhang 12b new anchor bolts and chains and (no photos)

CHEK – Forgotten Wall

Note: 100 New Permadraws added at CHEK during phase 3
*Permadraws added to Just Can’t Do It 13a

Corroded non stainless placed in 2003 Creepy Crawlers, Junkyard Patio and Olympic Bid (23 in total)

Creepy Crawlers 11a	Creepy Right 10b
Replaced all studs with stainless steel both routes including both anchors with ½ inch

The Voodoo You Do 10b 3 new protection bolts and 1/2” anchor	Junkyard Patio 11a 5 new protection bolts and new ½” anchor
These 2 routes used to share a single anchor and now have separate anchors

Rug Munchers 11d Random bolts replaced and holes patched

CHEK – Toxic Lichen Wall

Permadraws added to ALL ROUTES including Olympic Bid 11d, Mr Negative 12d, Mrs Negative 12a, Joe Dirt 12c, The Mutation 11c, Ill Communication 13a.

Olympic Bid Random 11d Crux bolt rusted and replaced.  New anchor and chains.

Ill Communication 13a new anchor	The Mutation 11c new anchor

CHEK – The Circus

Permadraws now equipped on ALL ROUTES (except Down System 14b).
Changes made during phase 3 include (no photos):

• Adding Permadraws to White Trash 12d, Practical Horseman 13a
• Replacing all remaining rusted studs on the Circus Wall including random bolts on The Fleeing Hefer 12d, Bottom Feeder 12d and the mid way traverse on The Wayward Bovine 12b
• Neutered Bovine 11c Replace rusted anchor bolts with stainless steel 2×1/2 inch
• Chopping and patching a few random NON USED bolts on the Circus Wall (from previous new route development)
• Replaced anchor Quick Links, added ‘lower off’ biners to In the Black 11a and Pet Taxi 11a. Replaced SMC hangers with Fixe hangers on In the Black

CHEK – The Big Show

Permadraws now equipped on ALL ROUTES with the acceptation of Pulse/Patience (chains) and 1 nylon draw on Revival (seized locker).
Changes made during phase 3 include:

• Added Permadraws to Heat 13d, Division Bell 13d, (no photos)

The Sheriff’s Badge – The Daily Planet 12b

Pitch 1: 12a bottom anchor excellent condition with chains.  2 pitons (knife blade and lost arrow) near the bottom of the pitch were inspected and hammer tested.  A decision was made to leave them ‘as is’ in respect for Peter and Hamish who decided not to replace them several years back when they replaced the crux bolt. Decent protection is found close by to back them up.  The top anchor is also in excellent condition with chains.

Pitch 2: 10b top anchor replaced with Fixe single point anchor:

Pitch 3: 11a top anchor was Metolious Rap Hangers which was replaced with Fixe single point anchor. A hanger was added to an extra stud to provide a first piece of protection to start pitch 4 and act as a place to clip a pack/haul bag during the descent:

Pitch 4: 12b mid way anchor was replaced with 2 Fixe rings (no photo of rings)
The mid anchor allows the pitch to be climbed at 11a, avoiding the 12b finish.  3 x ¼ inch protection bolts (12b crux) were replaced with 3/8 bolts:

Pitch 4: 12b top anchor replaced with 2 Fixe rings (offset so weight is on single point and second point acts as a back up):

The Sea to Sky Gondola rezoning application recently received the first two readings at Squamish Council.

The next step is a Public Hearing set for Tuesday November 8 at 7:00 pm in Squamish Council Chambers.

Please share your opinion at this important meeting and  pass on the details of the meeting to friends.

The SAS is holding their AGM on Sunday, October 23 at 7pm in the Garibaldi Room of the Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Company in Squamish.

Everyone, members and non-members, are welcome to attend.  There will be discussion and feedback regarding the Best Practices Guide for Rock Climbing Route Development for Squamish Area Parks.  Please come and voice your opinions!  There will also be some great door prizes…

See you on the 23rd!

The Falcon Closure on the Stawamus Chief has now been lifted and all routes are open to climbing.  For more information, please see the BC Parks website.

The annual Squamish Mountain Festival is almost here!  Join the 5-day celebration starting July 13: clinics, photo contests, trade fair, parties, films, speakers & more.  Check it out and sign up for events here!