Well, technically it started with a gravel quarry attempting to churn the earth between Slhanay and Siy’ám’ Smánit. But in 1985 the Little Smoke Bluffs, a significant cluster of granite domes near downtown Squamish, was slated for housing development. 

Realizing climbers could no longer expect access, Kevin McLane and John Howe formed the Squamish Rock-climbers Association to provide a voice to the growing community of climbers in the small Forestry town. By the early 1990s the District of Squamish had yet to acknowledge the climbers interests though. A level of disbelief existed in the community regarding the value of recreation. In turn a new threat had appeared, a proposed gravel quarry at the base of the Chief. 

The BC Government was in the process of completing the Provincial Park system and the Chief, having no profitable timber, was an easy pitch. But not all members of the community were pleased. Pekultn Siyam / Dale Harry(1 of the 16 Hereditary Chiefs of the Sḵwx̱wú7mesh Úxwumixw) commented that “it’s like somebody came to your home and drew a chalk line across your backyard and suddenly told you that the area was going to become a park”, adding that “Even the white guys agree that this piece of rock has always played an important role in our culture. It’s part of who we are.”

“During mythological times Siy’ám’ Smánit (The Stawamus Chief, in Squamish BC) was a longhouse.

A Tl’a7áshen-Feast was held inside with all of the animal people as guests. Xaays-Transformer Brothers immortalized this event by turning both the guests and the longhouse into stone.

The longhouse is still visible today. The spirits of the guests remain trapped inside. The Squamish People are careful never to point at Siy’ám’ Smánit, pointing shows disrespect and brings the rain and storms.”

From SLCC.ca(Sk̲wx̲wú7mesh/L̓il̓wat7úl Cultural Centre)

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In 1995 agreements for a Park had been finalized. The opening statement of the Stawamus Chief Management Plan highlights the shared significance of this natural feature;

“The experience of the Chief goes into a realm beyond that of stunning views, fabulous climbing and tourism potential. The Magic of the quiet trail, the wonder of the lonely bird call, the rootedness of the rock mass, the challenge of the abrupt elevation gain and the awe inspiring views provide an easily accessible opportunity to get away and get above every-day reality that brings refreshment to the spirit as well as the body. There is a sense of pilgrimage about returning to the Chief.

 

Recognition of the spiritual value of the Stawamus Chief is shared by aboriginal and non-aboriginal people, local residents and area visitors. The elusive spiritual value to the Stawamus Chief is very precious and managing the park to ensure the integrity and longevity of the spiritual place has been a priority of the Advisory Committee.”

Citizens Advisory Committee; Meg Fellowes(co-chair)SECS, Rachel Sheppard(co-chair)SRA, Jim FirstbrookSTA, Anders Ourum CASBC, Kevin McLane CASBC, Genevieve leger CASBC, Paul Kindree SSAR, Frank Limshue DOS, Beverly Goodwin DOSP&R, Jim Sandford SRG, Scott Flavelle ACMG, Darvy West SCC, Chuck Dick FMCBC, Lorne Johnston FMCBC, Ron Goldstone SRA, John C Howe Forester and SSAR, Randall Lewis SFN.

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This document marks the beginning of a difficult period for the community. The millennium brought transformation. Real-estate overtook Forestry and Outdoor access was gaining popularity. With the 2010 Vancouver winter Olympics looming, a multi-million dollar upgrade to highway 99 was confirmed. Squamish Climbers participated in the planning stages, reducing the impacts and in some cases improving access to cliffs and crags. After almost twenty years of effort; Kevin McLane, Perry Beckham and John Howe managed to secure a commitment of significant resources to establish a Little Smoke Bluffs Park. The SRA was replaced by SAS (Squamish Access Society) shortly after and one of their first calls to action was a proposed gondola to the 2nd summit of the Chief. Public outcry from all members of the community shifted the gondola to its present day location. Advocacy work continues in numerous forms from hands-on maintenance projects to ongoing conversations with land-managers and community members. 

With the emergence of climbing as a mainstream pursuit the societies direction is focused on ensuring safe access for all who wish to experience the magic of the cliffs and crags. Long gone are the days of a few outcasts and oddballs searching for alternatives to the status-quo. We are proud to uphold the legacy that our predecessors have passed down to us, to learn from their mistakes, and to ensure these opportunities to connect with the land are available to future generations. 

All of us at SAS are excited for this next stage as we move forward into new and exciting spaces of collaboration, from sea(Sḵwx̱wú7mesh Temixw) to sky(Líl̓wat7ul). 

SAS Milestones:

SAS Milestones: 

1984 - Stopped Gravel mine between Chief and Slhanay 

1987 - Active voice against Smoke Bluffs housing development 

1992 - Stopped Apron Boulder Quarry 

1995 - Played a major role in the creation of the Stawamus Chief Class A park 

2002 - Played a major role in the creation of the Smoke Bluffs municipal park  

2003 - Protection of Murrin Corridor during Hwy 99 expansion 

2004 - Stopped Stawamus Chief Gondola Proposal  

2005 - Helped form Cheakamus Gorge Protected Area 

2007 - Smoke Bluff Park Advisory Committee established. SAS directors played a leadership role in this committee leading to the creation of the park we know today. The committee was absolved in 2021 and we anticipate continuing to be very active in the newly formed Park Advisory Committee. 

2008 - Completion of New Apron to upper Chief parking trail and outhouses. 

2009 - Completed Climbing Strategy Report (SAS commissioned by Ministry of Environment)  

2009 - Assisted Sḵwx̱wú7mesh Úxwumixw in renaming Slhanay 

2010 - Initiation of ongoing rebolting and anchor replacement program. In 2020, SAS replaced 225 bolts and anchors 

2012 onwards - Minimized logging impacts at crags including the Longhouse, the Outpost, Cat Lake and others 

2012 – Establishment of Best Practices Guide for Rock Climbing Route Development to be employed in the Squamish area provincial parks (the first of its kind in Canada) 

2014 - Initiation of Cragkeepers program to scrub existing crags 

2014 - Installation of low-impact urine diverting toilet in the Smoke Bluffs Park 

2017 - Completion of Smoke Bluff’s Park Management Plan 

2017 - Completion of Phase 1 of Cheakamus Recreation Site campground  

2017 - Construction of Murrin Loop Trail completed, led by Brian Moorhead 

2018 - Establishment of BC Parks Volunteer program, Grand Wall Boulders trail rebuff and installation of fencing in the Grand Wall bouldering area 

2018 - Installation of low-impact urine diverting toilet at the Petrifying Wall, Murrin Provincial Park 

2019 - Completion of wheel-chair accessible Parking Lot Wall at Little Smoke Bluffs 

2020 - Installation of low-impact urine diverting toilet at Electric Avenue, Cheakamus Canyon 

2020 - Installation of Phase 2 of fencing in the Grand Wall bouldering area 

2020 - Spearheaded programs building climber relationships with First Nations 

2020 - Inclusion of the Drenka Lands property in the Little Smoke Bluffs on the Blind Channel 

Ongoing programs: 

• Rebolting and Anchor replacement 

• Trail days and trash cleanup events 

• Cragkeeper programs 

• Falcon monitoring program with BC Parks 

By paying just ten dollars for a membership, you will support the continued efforts of your Squamish Access Society.