SAS Re-bolting Initiative - Phase 2

Building on our previous work, SAS is pleased to announce the completion of phase 2 of our re-bolting initiative.North WallsAll anchors on Alaska Highway 11d were replaced including the first rappel off Astro Ledge.  In addition, the old fixed line for the approach to the base was also replaced with a newer static rope.MurrinShaman Wall: The following climbs were re-bolted (including anchors as need be): The Shaman 5.10a, Tia 5.11c, Medicine Wheel 5.10d and Raven 5.11a.Pet Wall: 2 anchors and 1 bolt on Beers are Not Enough (AKA Petrifying Wall, the original route on the cliff, 1970) 5.10d were replaced and Even Steven 5.10d received 2 new anchors.Sugar Loaf: Tourist Delight 5.10b anchor replaced and a spinner was lock tightened on the Exodus 5.11a anchor.ChekAs was noticed by several climbers during the past climbing season, many fixed draws (either the draw itself and/or the Alum biners) were approaching their end of life. A decision was made to use stainless steel biners for durability and this rather unsettling report of a worn Alum biner actually severing a rope during a fall. We conducted extensive consultation with the climbing community regarding the replacement options for the draws including chain, nylon, and swaged cable. These discussions along with very positive reports (low visual impact, durability, etc.) from Rifle motivated us to use Permadraws with Stainless Steel Biners.Circus Wall: We have replaced the fixed draws with Permadraws on Thin Ice, Original Fish Hotline, Bottom Feeder, Neutered Bovine, Wayward Bovine, Fleeing Boivine, Cut to the Chase, Face the Music, The Fleeing Heifer, and Heifer Down.As before, please feel free to give us comments on these efforts as well as future possibilities. A third phase of re-bolting will be completed in the spring before the start of the climbing season. In addition, SAS would like to gratefully acknowledge the efforts of Squamish Rock Guides and Westcoast Mountain Guides for their contribution to this work.