2019 Anchor replacement program

The following anchors were replaced in 2019:MurrinPet Wall area – Captive eye steel lower off biners added to:

• Audience with the Emperor 5.11c
• Elastic Man 5.11b
• Pleasant Pheasent 5.11a
• Food Frenzy 5.11b
• The Burglar (lakeside wall) 5.10c

Lakeside Wall 

• Bachelor Life Memorial Arete  5.9 - replaced anchor with camouflaged, stainless steel chain 
• In The Doghouse 5.7 – lower off chain/ring combo installed

Milkmans Wall

• Lena 5.10d – replaced anchor

The ChiefNorth Walls  (first ascensionist Dean Hart was consulted and gave enthusiastic approval)

• Ron Zalko Workout 5.12a – replaced 3 protection bolts and anchor w/rap chains

• The Calling 5.12a - replaced corroded and damaged bolts – pitch 3 anchor, pitch 4 protection bolts

• Alaska Highway rappel line – replaced anchor bolts and hangers damaged in the 2015 rockfall event

• The Big Scoop 5.11b – replaced pitch one anchor bolts and added stainless chain/ring rap anchor

Backside

• Alien Discharge 5.12b- replaced 6 heavily corroded carbon/steel protection bolts. Improved lower off anchor

Malamute (this route is not within the BC rail closure)

• Damascus Steel 5.12a - replaced 5 heavily corroded carbon/steel protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts

Smoke Bluffs

• Dog Face 5.12c – - replaced 3 heavily corroded carbon/steel protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts
• Easy Does It 5.10c – Replaced anchor with stainless chain/ring rap anchor
• Outer Mongolia 5.11b - Replaced anchor with chain/ring rap anchor

Paradise Valley

• Spirit of the West 5.14a and Queen Bee 5.13d- Installed 11 permadraws (note both routes had some permadraws already in place which were donated by Steve Townsend and Cody Abercrombie)

Chek Canyon

• Biceptual Lover 5.12b – Installed 9 permadraws and captive eye steel lower off biners
• The Schism 5.10c- replaced worn lower offs with captive eye steel lower off biners
• Revelation 5.12c - replaced worn lower offs with captive eye steel lower off biners

Some photos taken during the replacement program work:Bachelor Life Memorial Arete new stainless anchorCalling protection bolt damaged by 2015 rockfall – replacedTypical carbon bolt from Alien Discharge snapped with light pressure with wrenchTypical quarter inch bolt on Ron Zalko WorkoutRap anchor on AK Highway descent Damaged by 2015 rockfall – replaced