3 Mar Update - Smoke Bluffs / FMCBC Lands

Mar. 4

Written By Robin Richardson

SAS’s Update Regarding the FMCBC Lands:

Until the consultation and information gathering phase is complete, SAS remains neutral on the matter of sale or retention of the Smoke Bluff Lands by the FMCBC.
SAS believes that all parties are acting in good faith during this process.

SAS is actively involved in the consultation process with the FMCBC Smoke Bluff’s Committee.
SAS will continue to be engaged with the Committee to understand what they learn over the course of their investigations in the next few months.
SAS is also engaged in conversations with other stakeholder groups and is independently undertaking research into the new zoning of the Smoke Bluffs and other municipal and legal matters related to a land transfer.

Once SAS has gathered more information, it will share it’s viewpoint regarding the lands with the Committee and with the larger climbing community. This will most likely be in late March or sometime in April.

In-Depth Update

1. FMCBC Lands – A Very Brief History:

In order to protect access to climbing areas and to prevent residential development in the Smoke Bluffs, in 1987 the FMCBC purchased three blocks of land now known as the FMCBC lands.
View a map of the FMCBC lands here (in pink). Note that the Drenka lands (in blue) on this map have recently been purchased by the DoS, and are discussed in this update as well.
This purchase of the FMCBC lands was financed via climber fund-raising and support from MEC.
In July of 2020, the District of Squamish (DoS) inquired as to the FMCBC’s “interest in transferring the FMCBC parcels for inclusion in” a newly designated Smoke Bluffs park.
In October of 2020, the FMCBC Board instructed its FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee to meet with the DoS to discuss the land transfer and to “investigate options and make recommendations.”

In December 2020, the Committee met with the DoS to discuss plans for the Smoke Bluff’s Park, and was authorized by the FMCBC Board to begin consultations with stakeholder groups regarding whether or not to transfer these lands to the DoS.
The FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee reports to the main FMCBC board, which is the body that will ultimately decide on the disposition of the FMCBC lands.
The FMCBC has stated that their decision will be guided by the views of the stakeholder community.

2. FMCBC Overall Process:

The process is currently in its early stages, and there is no set end date, though SAS believes a decision will be made in 2021.
The process includes two phases (which are described further below):

A consultation phase with stakeholders.
An investigation phase that examines the details regarding the current status of the lands as well as the pros and cons of transferring all or some or none of the properties to the DoS.

Note that during this entire process, the FMCBC has committed that it will be guided by a decision framework that ensures the long-term protection of climbers’ interests in the Smoke Bluffs.

3. FMCBC Consultation Phase:

The FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee is currently consulting with stakeholder clubs and climbing organizations - SAS, ACC Vancouver, BCMC, UBC VOC, and North Shore Hikers to discuss the possible land transfer and to get feedback from these groups. (This phase is ongoing)
The FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee has also requested written representations from these stakeholders as to their thoughts and opinions regarding a land transfer. (By March 24th)
The FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee will report on the conclusions of the consultation process to the main FMCBC Board. (April)
The FMCBC has stated that this report will also be shared with stakeholder clubs and the climbing community. (April)

4. FMCBC Investigation Phase:

During and following the consultation phase, the FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee will also be investigating legal, zoning, municipal, and other details related to the FMBC lands, as well as the pros and cons of transferring (or not transferring) the lands to the DoS.
The FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee will then deliver a report to the FMCBC Board with recommendations regarding options and next steps. (April - May)

The FMCBC Board will then decide whether to formally respond to the DoS or to table the matter temporarily or indefinitely. (Date TBD)
If they choose to respond, the FMCBC Board will inform stakeholders whether they are going to transfer all, a portion, or none of the lands to the DoS. (Date TBD)
If the FMCBC chooses to transfer all or a portion of the lands to the DoS, they may include conditions that aim to protect climbing access. (Details below)

5. Key Issues and Considerations Being Investigated by the FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee:

The current status of the FMCBC lands and how this status affects the decision to retain or transfer the lands to the DoS:

Rezoning of the Smoke Bluffs to a Park (Ongoing. Part of the DoS plan)
The Park Dedication Bylaw (Ongoing. Part of the DoS plan)

Other considerations

The pros and cons of FMCBC retaining ownership of the lands from the perspective of the present and future impact to climbing access:

Note: When recently asked what benefits a land transfer would provide to climbers, the FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee were unable to identify any benefits.
One possible benefit is that climbing access may be more secure in a formal park in which all lands are controlled by the DoS..
Another view is that there could be a less climber-friendly DoS in the future and that the climbing community should hold onto the lands as leverage against unknown future threats to climbing access.

The DoS has committed to creating the Park regardless of whether or not the FMCBC transfers their lands to the District.

If the lands are transferred/sold to the DoS:

Should the land transfer include covenants and/or conditions to protect climbing access?
What is the value of the lands? (Currently assessed value – 2021 – 3 parcels: $157,700)
What would happen to the money generated by the sale? How would it be used? Would it be used for climbing access?

Should the FMCBC retain strategic ownership of portions of the lands as leverage to protect future climbing access?

If the FMCBC retains the lands?

Is the FMCBC the right organization to control the lands going forward?
What are the risks of FMCBC holding onto these lands, as opposed to another existing or newly created group managing the lands?
The FMCBC has acknowledged that it is currently experiencing financial challenges and that it needs to get their “financial house in order and the FMCBC finances back on track.”

What would be the response from the DoS if the FMCBC retained the lands?
Would retaining the lands provide climbers with leverage that protect climbing access in the Smoke Bluffs?
Would the district be able to arbitrarily take control of these lands?

6. Other Recent Changes by the District of Squamish Relating to the Smoke Bluffs

Bylaw - Park Designation

On February 16, 2021, the DoS passed three readings of a bylaw to create the Smoke Bluffs Park. Comment period ongoing. Bylaw to be ratified shortly.
The bylaw change to Park status means that it will now be more difficult for the DoS to rezone the lands for non-Park usage than it was previously.
Our understanding is that to rezone the lands will now require majority consent of Squamish citizens in a referendum.
From the perspective of SAS, this new Park status would seem to better protect climbing access.

Note that this new Park bylaw will proceed regardless of whether or not the FMCBC lands are transferred/sold to the DoS.

Purchase of the Drenka Lands

In 2020, the DoS purchased the Drenka lands beside the Smoke Bluffs. See the two blue sections on the map here.
The 5.3 acre property was purchased for $650,000 and contains some classic routes (The Zip) and is currently being redeveloped by Squamish’s route developers.

The DoS stated that acquiring the land was important to ensure no industrial development occurred on the site as well as for environmental reasons, given the land’s direct proximity to the Mamquam Blind Channel.
Acquisition of this land was also a top priority for the DoS because an existing waterline essential to the Squamish water supply crosses the Drenka lands.
It’s SAS’s opinion that this is a positive development as it officially incorporates several existing and new crags into the Smoke Bluffs park.

Re-Organization of the Smoke Bluffs Advisory Committee

In 2007, the Smoke Bluffs Park Advisory Committee was created (unrelated to the FMCBC Smoke Bluffs Committee) to provide guidance and advice to the DoS Council regarding the Smoke Bluffs.
The Committee elected its own chair and membership was made up of a majority of climbers.
On February 16, 2021, the DoS passed a bylaw to change the Committee from one that advised council to a staff-level committee. Comment period ongoing. Bylaw to be ratified shortly.
DoS stated the reason for this was to reduce administrative overhead and costs as the prior Committee necessitated costly formal proceedings, whereas the new committee would be less formal/costly.
SAS/CASBC/FMCBC successfully lobbied to maintain a climber majority on the new committee.

It’s SAS’s opinion that this change appears to be neutral and largely administrative and does not appear to have a negative effect on climber influence in the Smoke Bluffs.
It’s important to note that this new committee – like the old committee – serves at the behest of the Mayor and Council and can be eliminated at any time. It provides climbers with some influence over the direction of the Smoke Bluffs but no actual control.

Robin Richardson