Re-Bolting – Phase 3 is Complete
SAS is happy to announce completion of Phase 3 of our re-bolting efforts. In addition to the already announced efforts the following details the work completed in this phase.
As before, every effort was made to minimize visual damage to the rock including pulling existing hardware (rather than chopping), use of existing holes for new bolts when possible or camouflaging the old holes with epoxy, and overdrilling the new holes to facilitate future replacement. In addition, SAS would like to gratefully acknowledge the efforts of Colin Moorhead at Squamish Rock Guides and Andre Ike at Westcoast Mountain Guides for their contribution to this work.
The content of the report is below for your viewing pleasure.
The Smoke Bluffs
Burgers and Fries
Pink Panther 11c dust marks from new bolts. Holes patched.
Peaches and Cream 10a and
Genetically Superior 11aDust marks from new bolts.
Over 40 11aDust marks from new bolts.
New bolts and ½ inch anchor
Smoke Bluffs – In Addition Without Photos
- Super Value 10c 2 new protection bolts
- Geritol 10c (Neat and Cool) 2 new protection bolts
- House Music 10c (Neat and Cool) 2 new protection bolts
All holes patched.
Murrin – Nightmare Rock
- And Metal for All 11d 7 new protection bolts, anchor bolts and chains (no photos)
- Big Daddy Overhang 12b new anchor bolts and chains and (no photos)
CHEK – Forgotten Wall
Note: 100 New Permadraws added at CHEK during phase 3
*Permadraws added to Just Can’t Do It 13a
Corroded non stainless placed in 2003
Creepy Crawlers, Junkyard Patio and
Olympic Bid (23 in total)
Creepy Crawlers 11a Creepy Right 10b Replaced all studs with stainless steel both routes including both anchors with ½ inch The Voodoo You Do 10b
3 new protection bolts and 1/2” anchor
Junkyard Patio 11a
5 new protection bolts and new ½” anchor
These 2 routes used to share a single anchor and now have separate anchors
Rug Munchers 11d
Random bolts replaced and holes patched
CHEK – Toxic Lichen Wall
Permadraws added to ALL ROUTES including Olympic Bid 11d, Mr Negative 12d, Mrs Negative 12a, Joe Dirt 12c, The Mutation 11c, Ill Communication 13a.
Olympic Bid Random 11d Crux bolt rusted and replaced. New anchor and chains. Ill Communication 13a new anchor The Mutation 11c new anchor
CHEK – The Circus
Permadraws now equipped on ALL ROUTES (except Down System 14b).
Changes made during phase 3 include (no photos):
- Adding Permadraws to White Trash 12d, Practical Horseman 13a
- Replacing all remaining rusted studs on the Circus Wall including random bolts on The Fleeing Hefer 12d, Bottom Feeder 12d and the mid way traverse on The Wayward Bovine 12b
- Neutered Bovine 11c Replace rusted anchor bolts with stainless steel 2×1/2 inch
- Chopping and patching a few random NON USED bolts on the Circus Wall (from previous new route development)
- Replaced anchor Quick Links, added ‘lower off’ biners to In the Black 11a and Pet Taxi 11a. Replaced SMC hangers with Fixe hangers on In the Black
CHEK – The Big Show
Permadraws now equipped on ALL ROUTES with the acceptation of Pulse/Patience (chains) and 1 nylon draw on Revival (seized locker).
Changes made during phase 3 include:
- Added Permadraws to Heat 13d, Division Bell 13d, (no photos)
The Sheriff’s Badge – The Daily Planet 12b
Pitch 1: 12a bottom anchor excellent condition with chains. 2 pitons (knife blade and lost arrow) near the bottom of the pitch were inspected and hammer tested. A decision was made to leave them ‘as is’ in respect for Peter and Hamish who decided not to replace them several years back when they replaced the crux bolt. Decent protection is found close by to back them up. The top anchor is also in excellent condition with chains.
Pitch 2: 10b top anchor replaced with Fixe single point anchor:
Pitch 3: 11a top anchor was Metolious Rap Hangers which was replaced with Fixe single point anchor. A hanger was added to an extra stud to provide a first piece of protection to start pitch 4 and act as a place to clip a pack/haul bag during the descent:
Pitch 4: 12b mid way anchor was replaced with 2 Fixe rings (no photo of rings)
The mid anchor allows the pitch to be climbed at 11a, avoiding the 12b finish. 3 x ¼ inch protection bolts (12b crux) were replaced with 3/8 bolts:
Pitch 4: 12b top anchor replaced with 2 Fixe rings (offset so weight is on single point and second point acts as a back up):Published on July 3, 2012 · Filed under: Community;
One Response to “Re-Bolting – Phase 3 is Complete”
Chris Whelan said on July 10th, 2012 at 5:25 pm
Unbelievable efforts and progress. Amazing to see the climbing community continue to be so effective in its stewardship of Squamish as an international climbing destination. Kudos to all involved!