Squamish Access Society

Canadian climber, Don Bowie, will be presenting a multimedia show on his successful climbing expedition to K2.  At 28,253ft above sea level, K2 is located in Northern Pakistan and is the world’s second highest peak. It is widely considered to be the hardest and most dangerous mountain on earth to climb.  On July 4th, 2007, Don became the 4th Canadian to summit K2, and did so without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Come see fantastic images, watch video clips, and hear stories of the dramatic ascent and tragic descent on what climbers call, “The Savage Mountain.”

Vancouver Show:
Tuesday November 24
HR MacMillan Space Centre, 100 Chestnut St.
Doors: 6:30 p.m.
Show: 7:00 p.m.
Tickets: $15 at the door ($10 with valid student ID)

Squamish Show:
Wednesday November 25
Howe Sound Brew Pub, 37801 Clevland Ave.
Doors: 7:00 p.m.
Show: 8:00 p.m.
Tickets: $14 at the door
$12 with reservations ($10 with valid student ID)

Tickets may be reserved via e-mail: info@effectiveevents.com, and will be held until 6:45 p.m. in Vancouver, 7:45 p.m. in Squamish.

For more information: 604-736-6933

Don Bowie loves remoteness and adventure, and thrives on long approaches and unclimbed routes in the higher ranges. This past summer marked his eighth Himalayan/Karakoram expedition, with a new route attempt on the north face of Gasherbrum III with Bruce Normand. In 2007, he and Normand summited K2 without supplementary oxygen, making Bowie the 4th Canadian to do so. In 2008, he endured 75 grueling days on a Broad Peak winter expedition before resigning to high winds and extreme cold. Earlier this year, Don received the Alpine Club’s Spirit of Mountaineering Commendation at the Piolets d’Or Awards ceremony for his part in the 2008 rescue attempt of Inaki Ochoa on Annapurna. This month, Don was a part of the jury at the world-renowned Banff Mountain Film Festival.

There will be some Forest Service Road closures during the Olympics.  Click here to view the notice from the Squamish Forest District office.

There are two open houses in Squamish this week to solicit input from the community on the 1st draft of the Official Community Plan.

The Official Community Plan will become a bylaw which guides policy direction for Squamish on future development and decisions regarding growth, planning, land use, and provision of services.  Climbing, as an integral and defining element of the Squamish community, needs to be adequately reflected in this important document.

We urge local climbers to attend and express support for enhanced consideration of climbing within the Plan.

The draft can be viewed here: http://www.squamish.ca/downloads/draft-official-community-plan-ocp-schedules

Pages 52 to 57 of Part 4 deal specifically with Parks and Recreation.

The meetings are on Wednesday October the 14th and Thursday October the 15th, and run from 5pm to 9pm at the Sea-to-Sky Hotel ballroom, 40330 Tantalus Way, Garibaldi Estates.

For more information see: http://www.squamish.ca/news/official-community-plan-forums

Greetings Squamish Climbers!

The 2009 Squamish Mountain Festival is upon us!  Check out the great line up of events which start this Wednesday August 12th.  There is an amazing line up of speakers and the week is chock full of clinics, films, parties and more.

A reminder that as part of the festival the SAS and CASBC have a trail day organized for Saturday the 15th, sponsored by Mountain Equipment Co-op.   To volunteer, meet at the Squamish Adventure Centre at 8am for coffee and sign up.  You can find more information here.

Cheers!

We have received word from BC Parks that not only the temporary Grand Wall closure from the top of the Sword to Bellygood is lifted, but as well the usual closure in the Dihedrals. There are no more falcon closures in effect on the Chief.

Parks staff are updating/removing signs.

The Squamish Access Society has been notified by BC Parks of a further falcon closure, effective immediately.

Part of the Grand Wall is closed: from above the Sword pitch to Bellygood ledge.  The Sword itself is open.

We have confirmed that at least one notice (at the Titanic trail leading up from the new parking lot) has been updated, but it is only a bold script addition to the usually closed climbs.

We recognize the implications of this closure.  Surrounding details, on which there is not much clarity, are many.  Please be patient as we work with BC Parks on getting more information.

The SAS is both pleased and proud to announce the release of the Squamish Climbing Strategy Report [PDF, 3.1MB].  We’ve been working for some time towards creating a roadmap for a strategic approach to ensure the sustainability of the Squamish climbing experience, both for climbers of today and as a critical recreational asset. This report represents the culmination of those efforts.  BC Parks, the District of Squamish and the Sea to Sky Highway Improvement Project commissioned the SAS to produce the report and it was authored for the SAS by Kevin McLane.  Thanks to everyone who provided insight and input.

The report paints a portrait of current Squamish climbing, the challenges and opportunities that growth and other factors represent, and sets out recommendations that would help optimize the climbing experience for the future.

The success of any future strategy will require active engagement by climbers.  The report’s 34 recommendations include an advisory committee of climbers to help steer policy, various surveys of climbers, enabling volunteer efforts by climbers and many more.  We hope that everyone who climbs in Squamish will be able to participate in, and reap the rewards of, a stewardship strategy for truly one of the world’s best climbing venues.

Click image to view larger version.

The 2009 Falcon closure is in effect.  Posters have been posted in the park.  We are working with Parks to confirm the restrictions in the area when it comes to the bottom of certain climbs being within limits, such as Europa.  We will also be requesting an email notification every year once the restrictions take effect.  This will allow us to update the site in the a timely manner.

For more information about the closure and affected routes, see BC Parks’ webpage about Stawamus Chief Provincial Park.

Membership in the society is $10 for two years and is renewable on a two year basis for $5.  You can sign up or renew on line here or fill in forms at Climb On or Valhalla Pure in Squamish.

Membership remains up to a year after renewal payment has lapsed.   If you are a member you will be contacted during this period as a reminder of your status.

The SAS is founded on members; the continued support of your membership and thereby climbers access work in Squamish is very much appreciated by the Society at large.

In 2008 additional signage regarding park policy on dogs was posted at several trail heads in the Chief boulders.  It was the first step by Parks to communicate a ramp-up in enforcement of the on-leash rule.  With the huge increase of users since the late 1990s, Parks has become especially concerned about the number of dogs left off leash.  Reported incidents of people being bitten, dog excrement among the boulders and on trails, dogs barking and fighting and running through re-vegetation zones have increased the need in Park’s eyes for enhanced enforcement.  Expect heightened enforcement this season; Parks does have the authority to ticket.

The SAS supports the on-leash policy and asks that dog owners abide by the Park rules so that they and others can enjoy it to the fullest.   The following link takes you to the pet policy in the park and other policies that may be of interest:

http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/#Management