Squamish Access Society

Negotiations continue about the future of the upper Malamute, albeit at a somewhat more drawn-out pace than anyone has expected. We’ve been encouraged by what we have heard that a solution in the best interests to recreationalists is potentially achievable. The fact remains that the land is still privately held, in which case the long term outlook for access is not ensured, let alone the integrity of the land. The issue of fines concerning the illegal cutting of trees hovers around the periphery of what the larger picture may hold.

Notwithstanding the situation on the ground, the pressures of other closures and the weather (unseasonably wet weather makes this faster drying crag appealing) has not surprisingly seen climbers continue to access the upper Malamute. An approach trail has apparently been cleared. If you can climb elsewhere, we encourage it, however there has been no indication of any official closure or denial of access to climbers.

On a related note, there have been some reports of further incidents at the lower Malamute, involving rail traffic and climbers near the tracks. Climbers should respect that their actions on the BC Rail right of way may negatively impact the delicate balance of the situation that exists there.

The closure at the Papoose, due to blasting for the Sea to Sky Highway improvement project, remains in effect. It is taking longer than anticipated to clear that amount of rock, particularly given the recent weather. The SAS met on-site with the project manager on May 10th to discuss timelines and the creation of a new approach to the existing trail. “Early July” was as precise a time-frame as could be obtained. We impressed that as soon as the last charge went off, the crag (as far as climbers were concerned) was open, irrespective of further work in the area. The new trail head (which still has to be confirmed by Parks) will be an angling trail over the clay slope to a switchback at the forest rim which takes you up to the start of the existing trail in the woods. It may or may not be in place at the termination of blasting.

At the request of the SAS, the highway work contractor returned recently with heavy equipment to the access point of Comic Rocks and leveled out an appropriate parking space for vehicles. It had been left as a bit of a quagmire. Below the cleared out area, the gate at the entrance of the rough approach road remains open, but for how long is uncertain. To be sure you can get home without thumbing a ride, it’s probably best to use the parking near the highway.

Work here should be considered done. Please exercise caution in entering and exiting the highway.

Neil Bennett, who was one of the founding directors of the SAS, has resigned his post in order to further pursue his survey company’s work. As a founding member of the board, Neil was pivotal in creating the early momentum which brought the SAS into existence. His thoughtful, calm demeanor, his wit, and the early financial support which his company lent to the SAS are much appreciated. Neil remains a member of the SAS. Good luck Neil!

The Squamish Mountain Festival 2007 is almost here! This promises to be an incredible time for all those who love Squamish, its crags, boulders and mountain environs. It will be held between the 13th and 21st of July, 2007. Check out the names of some of the presenters: Josune Bereziartu, Perry Beckham, Tommy Caldwell, Will Gadd, Ron Kauk, Kevin McLane, Ines Papert. For a full run-down on the schedule, including showings, parties, trail and crag maintenance sessions, clinics, Flashed Dyno Comp and tons more fun see www.squamishmountainfestival.com.

The event requires help from registered volunteers. If you are interested, you can sign up at www.squamishmountainfestival.com or email either info AT squamishaccess.ca or info AT access-society.ca, providing your contact information and days/evenings/hours you are available. Your help is truly appreciated in making the event a success.

If you’d like to pitch-in as a volunteer in a more unofficial capacity, there are two trail and crag maintenance days planned: one on Friday the 13th sponsored by Mountain Equipment Co-op and the Climbers Access Society of BC and one on Saturday the 21st sponsored by Mountain Equipment Coop and the Squamish Access Society. Details will be posted soon. See you there!

There’s been new route development and retro-scrubbing going on. Not all details are readily available, but a good place to start is asking for beta at the Climb-On store in Squamish.

A major “pilot” effort in crag maintenance will be going on in the near future (most likely early July) at Burgers and Fries south. This portion of the crag has seen severe vegetation encroachment over the years. This, as well the lack of anchors has contributed to a concentration of climbing in the already overused Burgers and Fries north area, while leaving some nice routes neglected. It is hoped that the remediation effort will serve as a pilot project for further “vertical terrain management” in the new Smoke Bluffs Park. Anchor hardware will be provided by the Squamish Access Society; the work will be conducted under the purview of the Smoke Bluffs Park Development Committee.