Squamish Access Society

The highway work in the Rogues Gallery area is finally complete. There are still three lanes, two northbound and one southbound, separated by a rumble strip (no concrete barriers). The parking situation is significantly altered. There is a gravel pullout just under the crags on the east side of the road, as before, but the sightlines for scoping northbound traffic are now very poor and this is not a safe place to park. There is a new pullout for southbound traffic approximately 100 meters south of the crag, on the west (river) side of the highway. The only legal way to enter it however is when driving southbound. For climbers coming from Squamish or Vancouver, the legal way to change directions is located about 2.3 kilometers to the north, where a turning lane shunts you onto the bridge over the river, where you can turn around and head back South. About 5 minutes at a max, that’s all.

On December 11th, 2006, the SAS met with representatives of the Ministry of Transportation and the highway work contractor regarding ongoing work at the Papoose. While the Papoose has remained nominally open since work began, the schedule of blasting has led to unpredictable timeframes in which the crag would be open for climbers. The signage which the contractor had been posting was at times confusing and contradictory. There is a real physical threat to climbers being anywhere near the Papoose during blasting: the access path is directly adjacent to current blasting work, and blasting is occuring at the south end as well, out of sight of the access path entrance. It was agreed that the best interim solution would be to have climbers adhere to a voluntary closure until the blasting schedule became more predictable or when the blasting was done.

The SAS is working with the contractor on the best on-site signage to communicate the closure, and these signs should be posted by late-January. The possibility remains for a negotiated partial closure on weekdays, allowing climbers access during the weekends. If this solution is reached, we will post an update and the signage will be amended.

For a graphic representation of how the Shannon Falls interchange will look after construction, please see the conceptual plan from the Sea to Sky Improvements website.

On Dec. 11th the SAS met with representatives of the Ministry of Transportation and the highway work contractor; in subsequent emails it was confirmed that the access ramp would be paved by late June 2007 and efforts would be made, at a minimum, to construct and grade a gravel entrance for the interim time period. As of Jan. 3, 2007, the SAS is pleased to report that access to Comic Rocks has been restored; one can enter and park in the same location as the old entrance, via a gravel pullout (coming from the South; see October 2006 news). The SAS would like to thank the Ministry of Transportation and the the highway contractor, Peter Kiewit & Sons for their efforts on this front. Note: The gate leading to the entrance road at the bottom of the gravel pull-out seems to be open, however we do not recommend driving in, as it may be closed at any time. Furthermore, be cautious in pulling in, and especially pulling out of the gravel area - the site is located at the convergence of two north-bound, highspeed lanes.

In the fall of 2006, significant rainfall led to the Mamquam FSR being temporarily blocked by debris flows originating from the South Gully area and near the Sheriff’s Badge (just north of the Angel’s Crest trail). The final section of the approach to the Rock On area which navigates the debris gully has been affected by the South Gully slide. Because of the displacement of debris, caution should be exercised in approaching this area.

The Sea to Sky Improvements website shows the current conceptual plan of how the Chief gateway will look once the highway work being planned is done (along with additional plans for Murrin Provincial Park and Shannon Falls Provincial Park).

To note are the protected T interchange to get in and out from both directions, increased parking, and the interface with the Malamute side of the highway.The SAS met with the highway work contractor on January 10th 2007 for an update on the work scheduled for the general area in front of the Chief. Work will commence in early 2007 near the current entrance to the park in preparation for highway upgrades and the new “gateway” to the Chief. Access to the park will be maintained during the 2007 construction period, with the potential of minor delays or detours depending on the work being undertaken.

Much of the work at the Chief is dependent upon the falcon nesting period. Expect tree felling as early as the last two weeks of January 2007, additional “non-nesting disruptive” work throughout the spring and summer, and then some blasting and excavating later in the year.

The SAS appreciates the pro-active approach on behalf of the Ministry of Transportation and Peter Kiewit Sons in keeping user groups informed and working with them to mitigate disruption of use of the area.

The recent considerable amount of snow left the Conroy Creek Forest Service Road blocked by plow debris. Parking even at the side of highway was difficult.

The gravel pit opposite The Rehab Project and Ripple Tower now serves as the new salt-shed for the highway maintenance crews. Parking there is allowed for Ripple Tower, The Rehab. or Pleasure Dome, etc… during the winter months. Please leave space for trucks to enter and exit.

As highway related work at the Chief “gateway” begins in 2007, the scenario between the current Chief parking lot and the Apron parking lot / Mamquam FSR entrance will unfold. Depending on whether the highway expansion happens on the east or west side, the effect on the The Dump, Drive-by-Boulders and Desire boulder is as yet unknown. We have been informed that more information will most likely be available in the March/April 2007 time frame.

The wind storms which hit the South-West coast in the fall/winter of 2006 seemed to leave the Grand Wall Boulder main corridors (Grand Wall trail and main trail between Superfly and Titanic) relatively unscathed from tree-fall. There is minor branch-debris, which should be cleared up pretty quickly. A further note, unrelated to the storms, is the additional reminder (perhaps one of several) posted at the entrance of the trail to Black Dyke that dogs are to be kept on leashes within the park except on the Chief Peaks Trail on the backside.

Status: changed access situation.

Access to Mount Habrich and the Sky Pilot area was significantly changed in the Fall of 2006. The Ministry of Forests closed the gate at the entrance of the Stawamus/Indian Forest Service Road due to road damage. Recent scouting by the SAS indicates that significant damage has occurred on the Shannon Creek Branch making it virtually impassable for vehicles at this time. Some sources close to the forestry industry suggest that repairs will be effected, however this and any related time-table are not confirmed. Climbers wanting to access this area must now ride or walk in from the closed gate, which adds a fair bit of time.

The SAS is researching the viability of better access to this region via Britannia Creek. The residential development at Britannia by Macdonald Development Corporation has led to far better access than before to the Brittania Creek valley. The logging road is in excellent shape at least to the 5km mark and seemingly beyond to the old Mt. Sheer townsite. Improved access via this route would add an additional option to gain the alpine terrain around Mountain Lake (currently accessed via Furry Creek), an excellent hiking and moderate scrambling destination. The future potential for an excellent alpine link-up via the head waters of Furry and Britannia is something to consider if access can be maintained and enhanced to both watersheds.

The SAS would like to acknowledge Mountain Equipment Coop for their kind donation of 300 1/2″ stainless steel bolts and hangers for anchor replacement and enhancement use. The SAS will consult with the local community for opportunities to put this hardware to good use.

We urge those interested in the climbing at Skaha to get the most recent update concerning future access from the Skaha.org website, the Climbers’ Access Society of B.C. website or by emailing: info(at)access-society.ca.