Squamish Access Society

Work at the Papoose has started in earnest now with blasting occurring regularly between the highway and the cliff. Here is a photo of the current situation (mid-October) on the site. As of late October, we understand significant work has started at the North end of the buttress in front of the Papoose.

As of mid-October, the contractors had posted two signs for climbers at the entrance of the trail heads, which denote blasting times. The most current information indicates this may have changed. Do not enter the trail head during any posted times of blasting. We are working on clarification of the large no entry signage which is presumed to mean vehicular traffic/casual pedestrian only, and on potential new developments which leave the area devoid of any signage (as of late October). Parking is still possible at modified Shannon Falls entrance or potentially across the highway. This work is ongoing until summer 2007.

The new four lane stretch between Furry Creek and Comic Rocks is now partially complete. Concrete barrier dividers now prevent any southbound traffic from entering the future right-in & right-out planned entrance, or the current optimum parking spot of Britannia Forest Service Road several hundred meters to the south. Those traveling from the north wishing to climb at Comic Rocks need to drive south to Furry Creek and head back north. The best current parking, as mentioned, is at the Britannia FSR entrance (then walk north along the highway). There is a pull out now directly adjacent to the old entrance, but it is not an official parking option. The contractor states that the oncoming rains will delay paving of the new off and on ramp until spring 2007.

On Sunday, October 15th, eleven individuals from the community of Furry Creek and the BCMC donated approximately 40 hours of trail clearing in less than clement conditions - in fact it was pouring. Thanks to all those involved in helping maintain a trail system to an area rapidly growing in popularity for its alpine setting.

An article in the Chief newspaper, ‘20-year Smoke Bluffs Park odyssey almost a reality‘ speaks to the state of the Smoke Bluffs Park initiative to date. Much work is still continuing behind the scenes.

During the Climbers’ Access Society of B.C. climbers’ festival staged on the weekend of the 9th and 10th of September, a lot of great on-the-ground work was done at three different areas: Petrifying Wall at Murrin Park, the Smoke Bluffs and ‘The Squaw’. A new set of stairs was installed at Pet Wall (badly needed for many years), trail delineation was improved at the Bluffs, and, in an initiative specifically headed by the Squamish Access Society, the parking at ‘The Squaw’ was cleared of two truckloads of dumped material, delineated by boulders as an actual parking spot, and the access and walk off trails more clearly denoted. Thanks are due the Climbers’ Access Society for their hard work in getting this weekend planned, in particular to Anders Ourom.

Despite the heavy construction presence in the area, parking and climbing at Rogue’s has remained open throughout. In the absence of signage indicating otherwise, climbers should continue to use whichever areas are free in the old parking zone. We commend the contractor, Peter Kiewit Sons’, for their diligence in that regard. No crag losses are anticipated, but a new parking situation will evolve as construction winds down in late 2006.

While highway construction at the Papoose is looming, we have not been informed of any permanent closures. When blasting begins, the current news from the contractor is that appropriate signage will be placed at the entrance way concerning the access situation. The newest way in to the parking lot of Shannon Falls Provincial Park has been moved to the north by a hundred feet or so because of work on the bridge. If one parks there, one has to walk south along the highway (the old entrance road is off limits) to access the new approach trail. The other option is to find ‘alternate’ parking and cross the highway at the lights and head straight up the embankment to the clearly marked trail. There is a ‘No Entry’ sign at the old entrance, but we have not been informed that this is to prevent climbers from briefly skirting the right side of that road before heading up into the woods on the approach trail.

Unfortunately, the trees on the buttress between the Papoose and the highway have been felled in preparation for blasting sometime in the next 12 months (read more below). When blasting begins, we will work with the contractor to provide appropriate signage and communication regarding access to the crag. Our objective is to have the contractor provide appropriate and timely on-site information; more so than was forthcoming initially at Nightmare Rock and what is currently available at Comic Rocks.

Some Background: Historically, the Papoose climbs have enjoyed a relatively sheltered exposure to highway noise and presence, and throughout MOT’s Recreation Focus Group process it was declared by MOT as an area where there would be no impacts. However, early in 2005 MOT curtly declared they would be four-laning below the crag, with the consequence that the protective tree and rock cover along the highway’s edge would be blown away, along with some climbs just off the current highway. The full impact of four lanes of traffic in full view below the crag will bring a new and unpleasant aspect to the Papoose climbing experience. Regrettably, neither BC Parks nor the District of Squamish offered objection to this.

The present access situation in the Murrin Park canyon is focussed on the Nightmare Rock area. The highway in front of Nightmare is to be a new merging zone where four traffic lanes from the north merge into the existing two lanes through the middle of the canyon. The contractor, Peter Kiewit Sons’, is pushing back the sides of the existing highway in front of Nightmare to make way for the merge. Expect intermittent closures due to blasting (which currently has been on hold for some weeks, but there are obvious signs of more to come). Signs indicating periodic closures are posted on the north and south ends of the crag near the highway.

In the long term, the only change that is expected to the actual crag of Nightmare Rock is for greater proximity of the highway, the removal of some ground cover (roadside boulders and shrubs) and thus some higher noise-impact to contend with when you’re gunning for the redpoint on Sentry Box. The actual boulders that have been developed at the base should also remain intact, but may be affected by dynamite debris and the same sort of noise situation as the crag. There is some concern as to the effect on the Lost Boulders (on the west side of the highway, tucked in the woods) of a permanent south bound turning lane into the parking area. The crags on the east side will remain unaffected except for Browning Bluff at the far south of the corridor which will be re-enforced by steel rod.

A temporary alternating third lane is planned for the 2010 games, with reversion to two lanes thereafter.

Although climbers have been active on the Malamute for over 40 years, it presents climbers today with the most high profile and complex access situation in the entire region. The Malamute can be considered as two separate areas; upper and lower, each with a different set of ownership and access issues.

The situation at the lower Malamute, where the CN Rail tracks skirt along the base of the cliffs, is that the rail right-of-way, some 18 metres each side of the tracks, has been aggressively declared by the rail company as ‘we may prosecute’ zone if they find climbers there.

All the Malamute crags and climbs beyond and above the rail right-of-way are on undeveloped private land and the owners, two Squamish businessmen, have offered no formal objection to the presence of climbers. However, this situation cannot be taken for granted, and it could change at any time. If you visit or climb at the upper Malamute, the SAS asks that you be fully aware it is private property and be respectful, both of the place itself, and anyone you may encounter there.

The parking area is just north of the bridge Peter Kiewit Sons’ have been constructing this last few months. Unfortunately, due to lack of signage, close to a de facto closure is in effect because of the pylons and heavy machinery moving about; not exactly welcoming. But we have not been informed of any temporary closure to climbers, so there should be space to squeeze in and park. Generally, this is the type of situation we are working hard at to mitigate: there ought to be appropriate signage and clear allowances for those wanting to park in the area.