Squamish Access Society

Several recent events within the Stawamus Provincial Park have led BC Parks staff and others to ask what actions should be taken to address activities that may lead to damage of existing climbing routes as well as endangerment of the non-climbing public.

Specifically, this has been in the context of new route development and retro-cleaning.  I would like to take this opportunity to clarify that the Squamish Access Society is not seeking to have charges laid against anyone with respect to these activities.  Any discussion that has occurred regarding the laying of charges against any specific route developer(s) has occurred outside of SAS or our Climbing Advisory Group (CRAG).

The SAS does not want to see this kind of enforcement from BC Parks, and would prefer a consensus driven community approach, with the backing of BC Parks, to deal with these issues.  Upon speaking directly with BC Parks on this matter, it is clear to me that they too do not want to start charging anyone, including climbers, for activities that do not comply with the BC Parks Act.  That being said, the SAS cannot stop BC Parks from making what it deems necessary changes to its regulatory framework.

Via CRAG and other avenues, SAS is actively engaged with BC Parks to find an amicable solution to the
recent events that have led some to feel legal action is required.  I hope our work will lead to a system that is favourable to all concerned and will alleviate any issues there might be with new route development within the three BC Parks in the Squamish area.

Questions and comments can be made here through our website.

Regards,

Charlie Harrison, P.Eng.
President
Squamish Access Society

We have received news from BC Parks that the 2010 falcon closure we reported on here will be lifted as of July 9 2010.  All previously closed routes are open for climbing as of that date.

BC Parks has issued a list of climbs that should not be climbed for 2010:

• Negro Lesbian
• Europa above pitch 2
• Millenium Falcon above pitch 2
• The Gauntlet above pitch 2
• Supernaut above pitch 2
• Planet Caravan above pitch 2
• Clean Corner
• Sports Illustrated
• Warriors of the Wasteland above pitch 2
• Western Dihedral above pitch 2
• Stone Free
• Men Holding Hands above the first 5.12 pitch
• Brothers in Arms above the first 5.12 pitch
• Freeway above the 10c pitch traverse
• Crescent Ramp
• Cannabis Wall above pitch 2

Further information and a photograph is available in this Falcon Closure 2010 Notice.

The SAS has continued to liaise with Parks on the 2010 Falcon Closure issue.

Parks has been monitoring a falcon presence on the Grand Wall to the right of belly good ledge but to date has not confirmed nesting behaviour.  As a result, there are currently (as of May 8th 2010) no closures in effect.  It is the evidence of nesting behaviour which triggers any closures.  Climbers are asked to call 604-898-3678 ext 2221 with any information.

In coordination with the SAS, in 2009 BC Parks completed work on the trail at the base of the Chief.  It is now far easier to navigate the stretch between Rutabega (especially just below the black Dyke area) all the way north to Seasoned in the Sun (where the drainage approach has been replaced with a series of switchbacks).  The SAS would like to thank BC parks and the now completed Sea to Sky Highway Improvement Project for engaging climbers on this front and we look forward to further cooperation with the province and the municipality of Squamish following the roadmap of the Squamish Climbing Strategy Report.

The improvement of trails for climbers under the combined initiative of SAS, SSHIP and Parks includes:

• the new Apron Connector trail between the apron parking lot and the old highway road bed
• improved delineation of north wall trails
• improved condition of Apron Descent Trail
• improved condition of trail to Shannon Falls and Gobsmacking crags
• improved Chief base trail

The SAS is aware of changes which occurred last year in the running of the campground at the Chief.  In particular the payment regime, definition of “parties”, and mode of collection were altered to bring the park more in line with provincial policy.  This was met with less than universal approval. The vast majority of users are climbers who arrive by various modes of transport (foot, car, bus, bike) and tying the definition of a “party” to vehicles has not been easy to understand or implement.  The absence of a self-payment (replaced by early morning collection calls) has also been challenging.

In a meeting in July 2009, the SAS voiced its concerns about the changes, in particular what it meant to what until then had been heralded as a unique and welcoming environment for climbers around the world.  Parks committed to a re-assessment after the “test” season was complete.  The SAS appreciates that the park needs to be run in accordance with provincial government mandates, however would like to explore avenues to maintain a climber friendly and accessible environment.

The SAS is meeting, in conjunction with the Access Society (of BC), with BC parks and the new park contractor prior to the 2010 campground opening to explore ways that Parks can meet its requirements as set out by the province, and ways in which the payment regime can be modified to best accommodate the realities of the majority of users.

The traditional falcon closure window is in effect.  No closures are in effect at this moment (April 9th 2010) The following information is from the BC parks website:

Notice to Rock Climbers:

• Since the mid-1980’s Peregrine Falcons have been returning to nest in the Dihedrals Area. Climbers have observed a voluntary closure to protect the nesting falcons from disturbance. Following up on this effort by climbers, BC Parks places restrictions on certain routes from March 15 - July 31. Route closures may change pending peregrine falcon behaviour.
• Please report any observations to: 604-898-3678 ext 2221.

The annual closure program was recently discussed with BC parks at the Climbers Advisory Group established under the Climbing Stewardship Strategy.  The discussions follow on the heels of concerns initially voiced to BC Parks by the SAS in a meeting held in June 2009, following the unprecedented closure of part of the Grand Wall route.

For the upcoming season, BC Parks is committed to work under an enhanced draft-monitoring program based on scientific data that comprises the following:

• starting March 2010, working with a wildlife biologist specializing in falcons, look for key indicators of nesting behaviour
• focus on traditional closure area since early indications don’t suggest a broader cast is necessary
• if nesting location is confirmed, communicate closure of affected area to climbing community
• determine approximate time of fledging, pull back monitoring but keep closure in effect
• monitor calculated fledging time and re-open any closures after fledging is confirmed.

Falcons have been observed by climbers this year, and that information has been passed on to BC parks.

The SAS would like to thank BC Parks for their continued engagement with climbers on this front.

Due to some very close calls over the last few months, route cleaning (in particular on the Chief) has become a matter of deep concern for the SAS and BC parks.  There have been instances of intentionally trundled debris coming very close to hitting people at the base of the Chief.  The SAS urges extreme caution by anyone retro-cleaning or establishing new lines anywhere in Squamish, but especially in Stawamus, Shannon Falls and Murrin provincial parks.  To date climbers have had the liberty to self-govern their actions, and cleaning routes is a vital part of a sustainable climbing environment.  However, the SAS strongly suggests any cleaners think long and hard about the merits of their activity and follow logical steps of communicating and carrying out their intentions, the most obvious one being to ensure by all means necessary that no one is below the cleaning area.

Death or injury to anyone would obviously be a tragic result of any cleaning activity, but as well prove to have huge implications for climbing and new route activity in the parks and most likely other jurisdictions in the Squamish area and province wide.

Route cleaning has come up as part of the discussion taking place at the newly formed Squamish Climbers’ Advisory Group, a group of climbers and BC Parks staff tackling immediate and strategic issues related to climbing matters.

We have received word from BC Parks that not only the temporary Grand Wall closure from the top of the Sword to Bellygood is lifted, but as well the usual closure in the Dihedrals. There are no more falcon closures in effect on the Chief.

Parks staff are updating/removing signs.

The Squamish Access Society has been notified by BC Parks of a further falcon closure, effective immediately.

Part of the Grand Wall is closed: from above the Sword pitch to Bellygood ledge.  The Sword itself is open.

We have confirmed that at least one notice (at the Titanic trail leading up from the new parking lot) has been updated, but it is only a bold script addition to the usually closed climbs.

We recognize the implications of this closure.  Surrounding details, on which there is not much clarity, are many.  Please be patient as we work with BC Parks on getting more information.