Bolt Issues - how to resolve/report them

In the past couple of weeks there have been quite a few posts on Facebook and reports through our webform (https://squamishaccess.ca/report-a-bad-bolt-or-anchor) about bolt issues. It’s great to see people identifying issues and passing them on, we just want to make some clarifications and clear up a couple of misconceptions. This information is also contained in the following video that we put out this summer, check it out if you haven’t already https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9kp4LbAYcM&t=1s

1. SAS contracts guides to replace old and damaged hardware. This includes bolts that spin in their holes, old bolts that aren’t up to modern standards, bolts damaged by corrosion and rockfall, permadraws that are worn out. All these issues should be brought to our attention directly at https://squamishaccess.ca/report-a-bad-bolt-or-anchor

2. SAS does not contract guides tighten loose nuts or replace missing hangers/nuts. All you need to fix this issue is a crescent wrench, or for most of the bolts in Squamish a 9/16” wrench will do the trick. It’s also worth carrying a spare nut, washer, and hanger - they might have already fallen off or may do so as you fiddle around fixing the problem. All components must be stainless steel and you can buy them in town at Climb On. If you aren’t equipped to tighten a nut or replace hangers/nuts, then ask climbers around you or throw a post up on facebook to let other climbers know. Hopefully someone comes along prepared after seeing your post and resolves the issue.

3. It’s important to note the difference between a bolt with the stud spinning in the hole and one where the nut is loose and the hanger spins around the stud. The former needs to be removed and replaced with a new bolt, but a spinning hanger is typically just in need of the nut being tightened down.

4. Posting on facebook can be a useful way to warn people of issues, but if the problem needs our attention please also report it directly to us!