Subscribe

comment on recent Grand Wall boulders incidents

The Squamish Access Society would like to call attention to two incidents of unfortunate and destructive activity which have recently occured in the Grandwall Boulders. Specifically climbers have been manufacturing holds, and using a blowtorch on the rock. While climbing is a sport in which we are all free to make our own rules, there is consensus in the community that activities which damage and deface the rock are forbidden. It is also important to note that the Grand Wall Boulders are in a provincial park, and we must all do our best to minimize our impact.

While there are example of historic hold manufacturing in the boulders (ie the Cacodemon Boulder), the modern consensus is that this is not an acceptable practice. There is some grey area when cleaning loose rock during a first ascent, but carving holds in solid granite in order to reduce the difficulty of a climb is clearly outside of that grey area. Additionally it worth mentioning that the Squamish Access Society has written a best practices guide for developers which can be found here. Section 4 has guidelines for boulders.

Applying a blowtorch to the rock not only dafaces it with black marks but can cause permanent damage. The extreme heat can cause cracking, exfoliation and even result in holds breaking. Getting a climb in on a wet day is never reason enough to risk destroying a climb.

If anyone sees either of these activities occuring, please speak up. As the sport of climbing grows, not all new climbers will be aware of the harm caused by these practices. It is important that we continue a tradition of more experienced climbers educating less experienced climbers.

Leave a Reply

LATEST NEWS

  • Statement regarding Murrin land transfer
    In light of recent media attention, and after consultation with the District of Squamish and the Ministry of Indigenous Relations and Reconciliation, the board members of the Squamish Access Society (“SAS”) would like to make a public statement about SAS’s position on land transfers from the Crown...
    Read more
  • 2019 Anchor replacement program
    The following anchors were replaced in 2019: Murrin Pet Wall area – Captive eye steel lower off biners added to: Audience with the Emperor 5.11c Elastic Man 5.11b Pleasant Pheasent 5.11a Food Frenzy 5.11b The Burglar (lakeside wall) 5.10c Lakeside Wall  Bachelor Life Memorial Arete  5.9 –...
    Read more
  • Chek film shoot 7th – 30th August
    SAS has been asked to share the following statement: “Starting in the second week of August, a film company will be preparing for filming on Conroy FSR at Cheakamus Canyon. The area they are applying to occupy is north of the main parking lot.  They are in...
    Read more
  • Uncertain future for Murrin
    The BC provincial government is in the process of transferring several crown land parcels to Squamish Nation as part of the Squamish Nation’s agreement with Woodfibre LNG. An agreement between the parties was reached in March 2019. In May 2019, SAS learned that one of the land...
    Read more