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2019 Anchor replacement program

The following anchors were replaced in 2019:

Murrin

Pet Wall area – Captive eye steel lower off biners added to:

  • Audience with the Emperor 5.11c
  • Elastic Man 5.11b
  • Pleasant Pheasent 5.11a
  • Food Frenzy 5.11b
  • The Burglar (lakeside wall) 5.10c

Lakeside Wall 

  • Bachelor Life Memorial Arete  5.9 – replaced anchor with camouflaged, stainless steel chain 
  • In The Doghouse 5.7 – lower off chain/ring combo installed

Milkmans Wall

  • Lena 5.10d – replaced anchor

The Chief

North Walls  (first ascensionist Dean Hart was consulted and gave enthusiastic approval)

  • Ron Zalko Workout 5.12a – replaced 3 protection bolts and anchor w/rap chains
  • The Calling 5.12a – replaced corroded and damaged bolts – pitch 3 anchor, pitch 4 protection bolts
  • Alaska Highway rappel line – replaced anchor bolts and hangers damaged in the 2015 rockfall event
  • The Big Scoop 5.11b – replaced pitch one anchor bolts and added stainless chain/ring rap anchor

Backside

  • Alien Discharge 5.12b- replaced 6 heavily corroded carbon/steel protection bolts. Improved lower off anchor

Malamute (this route is not within the BC rail closure)

  • Damascus Steel 5.12a – replaced 5 heavily corroded carbon/steel protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts

Smoke Bluffs

  • Dog Face 5.12c – – replaced 3 heavily corroded carbon/steel protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts
  • Easy Does It 5.10c – Replaced anchor with stainless chain/ring rap anchor
  • Outer Mongolia 5.11b – Replaced anchor with chain/ring rap anchor

Paradise Valley

  • Spirit of the West 5.14a and Queen Bee 5.13d- Installed 11 permadraws (note both routes had some permadraws already in place which were donated by Steve Townsend and Cody Abercrombie)

Chek Canyon

  • Biceptual Lover 5.12b – Installed 9 permadraws and captive eye steel lower off biners
  • The Schism 5.10c- replaced worn lower offs with captive eye steel lower off biners
  • Revelation 5.12c – replaced worn lower offs with captive eye steel lower off biners

Some photos taken during the replacement program work:

Bachelor Life Memorial Arete new stainless anchor

Calling protection bolt damaged by 2015 rockfall – replaced

Typical carbon bolt from Alien Discharge snapped with light pressure with wrench

Typical quarter inch bolt on Ron Zalko Workout

Rap anchor on AK Highway descent Damaged by 2015 rockfall – replaced

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