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July 2008
Annual General Meeting
The SAS AGM will be held on Thursday August 28th at 7pm at the Squamish Library meeting room. Everyone is welcome; come out and meet our directors, get updates of what we've been doing and what we have planned, including work on a greater Squamish climbing stewardship strategy. We would love to hear your ideas on what we should be focusing on and committing funds to. Casual banter at the Brew Pub afterwards!
Poll: New Apron Descent Trail
The SAS is proposing a potential new lower section of the Apron descent trail. We'd love to hear your opinion on the idea. Click here to learn more and to access our poll.
2008 Squamish Mountain Festival Crag Day
As part of the Squamish Mountain Festival, there will be a Crag Day sponsored by Mountain Equipment Co-op, Squamish Access Society and the Climbers Access Society of BC on Friday July 18th 2008. Meet at the Squamish Adventure Center at 8:30am for coffee, registration and a briefing. We'll then break-out into teams, cross the road to the Bluffs and put in an honest days work of trail and landing improvements (mostly from Penny Lane to Ronins Corner) and then meet up again in the afternoon for a voly-prize give-out.
Bring water and lunch, gloves, sturdy footwear and dress appropriately for the forecast. Please bring your own tools if you are willing to use them (shovels, picks, pruning shears, etc...) however the Squamish Access Society tool chest will let those without tools get just as sore! We look forward to seeing a great turnout.
VOC Donation
The SAS wants to acknowledge the kind donation by the Varsity Outdoor Club of a variety of field work tools, from handsaws to picks to a generator. These will be added to the SAS tool chest for Squamish Crag Keeper events.
May 2008
Climbing Strategy Report
The SAS has recently received a contract by the Ministry of Environment, District of Squamish, and the Sea to Sky Highway Improvement Project to produce a report on climbing in the Squamish region. It will present a comprehensive portrait of current activity, stewardship and management across Stawamus Chief Provincial Park, Shannon Falls Provincial Park, Murrin Provincial Park and Smoke Bluffs Municipal Park. It will also recommend steps to improve the climbing environment.
The SAS will form a peer review group to ensure both the report and the recommendations reflect the views of the Squamish climbing public.
The report will cover the full range of climbing activity, listing the crags, climbs, and boulders, within the historical context of how climbing has evolved. Vegetation growth and its consequences, trail and trail head status, long route cleaning policies and strategies of how to open up more climbs will all be addressed. A significant aspect of the report will be strategies for how to plan for future scenarios while maintaining the highest possible experiential values.
Please check back with us here at squamishaccess.ca as we'll be looking for information and feedback from climbers in order to prepare the best possible report and action time-line for Squamish's climbing future.
January 2008
Squamish Mountain Festival 2008!
Following on the success of the festival in 2007, the dates for the 2008 Squamish Mountain Festival have been set. The festivities will run from July 16th to July 20th 2008. Planning is already underway and look for details to be unveiled throughout the spring. As was the case last year, a significant volunteer effort will be required, so stay tuned on how to participate on that front as well.
Details as they unfold will be available at http://www.squamishmountainfest.com.
October 2007
Skaha Update
The following press release refers to an extension granted to the fund raising initiative around Skaha Bluffs:
Purchase deadline extended to January 15, 2008 to support funding partners...
Due to the complex nature of the funding negotiations for this purchase TLC asked for and received an extension to January 15, 2008 to secure all funds need to complete the Skaha Bluff Campaign securing access forever, for everyone. MEC member donations to help secure public access to Skaha bluffs have made a significant difference. To date, members have donated over $100,000 toward the cause. Through MEC's matching contribution and $250,000 land acquisition grant, together we've contributed $450,000. To all members who contributed - thank you!
Donations will still be needed to complete the dream following the purchase...
The Land Conservancy is confident that at all the funding partners will provide the money required to complete this sale.
It is also important to note that in the future, additional funds will be required to provide the road access, services and parking that climbers and hikers will call for in years to come.
Make your contribution to the Skaha Bluffs campaign.
Reel Rock Tour
On September 1, 2007, Squamish hosted the premier of this year's Reel Rock Tour. Tommy Caldwell presented slides and footage of his climbing feats in Yosemite, and the film "King Lines" featuring Chris Sharma, and an out-take of "Committed" (about bold British trad lines) were shown. A silent auction raised $1,200 for the Squamish Access Society and The Climbers' Access Society of BC.
Thanks again to all the volunteers and sponsors, in particular Ivan Hughes and The Squamish Mountain Film Festival for putting on the show.
Squamish Access Society Tool Chest
With the help of Rona, Climb On and Mountain Equipment Co-op, the SAS has been able to create a significant tool chest for use on trail days. The spades, cutters, pick-axes, etc... are housed at Climb-On and are available for crag/crag trail maintenance upon request and approval of the SAS. Contact info (AT) squamishaccess (DOT) ca or drop by Climb On. The inaugural use was on Saturday July 21st on the SAS sponsored trail day during the Squamish Mountain Film Festival. The eroded trail to the Apron was de-commissioned and, with the help of Parks, a substantial new switchback was created.

We hope to expand the tool chest to offer up brushes and various vertical access gear. Some of the first users will be volunteers signing up under a "Crag Keepers" initiative, where climbers can adopt certain climbs, trails or areas to maintain. Stay tuned for more details on how to get involved; we hope to have Crag Keepers up to full speed in early 2008.
August 2007
Squamish Mountain Festival a Huge Success!
The festival, held from July 13th to the 21st, 2007 was a big success thanks to the many sponsors, volunteers and climbers who supported the week long line up of events.
Fun was had by all and the organizers were able to collect a whopping $14,000 for access efforts, the amount being split between the Climbers' Access Society of BC and the Squamish Access Society. The majority of the total raised will go toward the Skaha bluffs efforts, with the SAS maintaining a portion of its half for initiatives in the Squamish area.
Events included the Flashed dyno comp, a trade fair, two trail days and a multitude of speakers, presenters and films. Plans are already underway for next year's festival - stay tuned!
Thanks to the following sponsors:
Presenting level: Arcteryx
Chief Level: Black Diamond, Flashed, Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Company, Mountain Equipment Co-op
Bluff level: Squamish Adventure Centre, La Sportiva, Maxim, Five Ten, Prana, Valhalla Pure Outfitters, The Edge, Adidas Eyewear
Media level: Gripped, Climbing, Urban Climber, The Chief, KVOS Television
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June 2007
Squamish Mountain Festival
The Squamish Mountain Festival 2007 is almost here! This promises to be an incredible time for all those who love Squamish, its crags, boulders and mountain environs. It will be held between the 13th and 21st of July, 2007. Check out the names of some of the presenters: Josune Bereziartu, Perry Beckham, Tommy Caldwell, Will Gadd, Ron Kauk, Kevin McLane, Ines Papert. For a full run-down on the schedule, including showings, parties, trail and crag maintenance sessions, clinics, Flashed Dyno Comp and tons more fun see www.squamishmountainfestival.com.
The event requires help from registered volunteers. If you are interested, you can sign up at www.squamishmountainfestival.com or email either info AT squamishaccess.ca or info AT access-society.ca, providing your contact information and days/evenings/hours you are available. Your help is truly appreciated in making the event a success.
If you'd like to pitch-in as a volunteer in a more unofficial capacity, there are two trail and crag maintenance days planned: one on Friday the 13th sponsored by Mountain Equipment Co-op and the Climbers Access Society of BC and one on Saturday the 21st sponsored by Mountain Equipment Coop and the Squamish Access Society. Details will be posted soon. See you there!
Neil Bennett: Pivotal Founding Board Member
Neil Bennett, who was one of the founding directors of the SAS, has resigned his post in order to further pursue his survey company's work. As a founding member of the board, Neil was pivotal in creating the early momentum which brought the SAS into existence. His thoughtful, calm demeanor, his wit, and the early financial support which his company lent to the SAS are much appreciated. Neil remains a member of the SAS. Good luck Neil!
April 2007
SAS Annual General Meeting
The Annual General Meeting of the Squamish Access Society will be held on June 3rd, 2007. This will be our first AGM. It will take place at 5pm in the Garibaldi Room at the Howe Sound Inn and Brewing Co, 37801 Cleveland Ave. Squamish. See you there!
The Land Conservancy of British Columbia (TLC)
Many of you will have heard about the TLC in the context of the most recent Skaha initiative or know of them from their pivotal involvement in the Gondola saga in Squamish (they secured the gravel pit land against future similar development). Because of the great work they are doing, we encourage you to learn more, become a member, and make a contribution. Please see www.conservancy.bc.ca.
Squamish Mountain Festival
This exciting week of clinics, speakers, films, parties, comps, trail work days and more is scheduled for July 13th to the 21st. For up-to-date information including a speakers list see www.squamishmountainfestival.com.
Skaha
Worth noting are the developments at our sister crag Skaha. Many of you will have been kept informed by regular CASBC updates regarding a funding drive to ensure future access is secured. Mountain Equipment Coop has generously announced its largest land acquisition grant ever of $250,000, along with a matching program (for MEC member contributions, go to www.conservancy.bc.ca/MEC-skaha; for others, see www.conservancy.bc.ca/).
The SAS would like to thank MEC, The Land Conservancy, Skaha Climbers and the Climbers' Access Society of BC (who contributed $10,000 ) for their commitment and hard work on this front. We encourage everyone to support this worthwhile cause.
January 2007
Squamish Mountain Festival, July 2007
In partnership with ARC'TERYX, The Squamish Film Society, and The Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia, the Squamish Access Society is excited to be part of this festival planned for July 13-21st, 2007. Two volunteer work days are planned amidst a week of slideshows, film viewings, climbing and celebration. Stay tuned for further information about this great event and mark your calendars!
Art Gallery Crag Update
Status: closed; further complications to future access.
This cliff remains closed due to the proximity of the Squamish Valley Rod & Gun Club outdoor range, which will remain in use for the foreseeable future as they expect to provide the range as a resource for 2010 Olympic security preperations. The SAS will monitor any change in the location and lease arrangements of the range. An added recent element which may affect access in the future is the large active quarry used by the highway work contractor to extract rock that has now pushed up to just under the cliff and destroyed the existing access path. The photo at right shows the proximity of the quarry to the cliff base.
Mountaineers' Soiree
On December 16th, 2006 at Whistler the SAS participated in the annual Mountaineers' Soiree hosted by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and presented by ARC'TERYX. The evening's events included a silent auction of donated goods and services by the mountain business community and an excellent slide show by renowned British alpinist Ian Parnell. Half the proceeds generated by the event are for the Brian Ebert fund to assist trainee guides, and the other half is slated for alpine related access work in the sea to sky corridor, coordinated in partnership between the ACMG and the SAS.
Squamish Valley Trail
The SAS has been asked to participate on the District of Squamish Select Committee for the Corridor Trail, which will oversee the development of a planned 11 kilometre multi-use trail running roughly parallel to Highway 99 from The Chief to the Depot Road area. The trail will make a very nice commute for climbers wishing to access The Chief by foot or bike from Squamish.
Skaha
We urge those interested in the climbing at Skaha to get the most recent update concerning future access from the Skaha.org website, the Climbers' Access Society of B.C. website or by emailing: info(at)access-society.ca
Donation The SAS would like to acknowledge Mountain Equipment Coop for their kind donation of 300 1/2" stainless steel bolts and hangers for anchor replacement and enhancement use. The SAS will consult with the local community for opportunities to put this hardware to good use.
September 2006
During the Climbers’ Access Society of B.C. climbers’ festival staged on the weekend of the 9th and 10th of September, a lot of great on-the-ground work was done at three different areas: Petrifying Wall at Murrin Park, the Smoke Bluffs and “The Squaw”. A new set of stairs was installed at Pet Wall (badly needed for many years), trail delineation was improved at the Bluffs, and, in an initiative specifically headed by the Squamish Access Society, the parking at “The Squaw” was cleared of two truckloads of dumped material, delineated by boulders as an actual parking spot, and the access and walk off trails more clearly denoted. Thanks are due the Climbers’ Access Society for their hard work in getting this weekend planned, in particular to Anders Ourom.
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