2016 Re-bolting initiative phase 1

Circus Area:

  • Completely replaced permadraws on Neutered Bovine, Face The Music, and Fleeing Heifer – by far the highest use permadraws in the area
  • Replaced a few other particularly worn permadraws of Wayward Bovine and Cut to the Chase
  • Face the Music Anchor biners replaced with steel lower off biners
  • Replaced several mangled or grossly corroded maillons on various anchors and existing permadraws
  • Replaced specific rusted out bolts on Wayward Bovine (3 bolts) and Bottom Feeder (5 bolts) these were some of the last original non stainless bolts on this section of wall. They probably weren’t showing significant corrosion when we did the original work in the area in 2010 and we decided to leave them, it goes to show that once non stainless bolts start to rust they go fast.
  • ·Many old chopped bolt holes (pre 2010) were patched with epoxy putty

In general the 2010 permadraws are holding up quite well, they still have good gate action and were showing very little grooving. The concern of sharp edges forming on redirect point biners seemed to be still a long ways off. Although there is anodization and slight rusting on the surface steel, the integrity of the biners is good. The original draws had shrink tubing around the cable cover/swage(braid?) points. This has been pulled down like a loose sock around bottom of high use permadraws, we cut this now useless covering off the offending draws. The most beat up component is the large maillon on the bolt end, on highly fallen on draws significant deformation has occurred. One concern with the original permadraws is the inside of the cable loop at the maillon side has a reinforced steel plate, once the shrink tubing has slid down it exposes sharp end points on this plating, although unsettling to have any sharp edges near ropes it seems very unlikely the rope would come in contact with these points because of the proximity being close to the bolt and the rope never running flat against the overhanging wall, it is likely that climbers grabbing these draws will occasionally nick themselves. The new permadraws don’t have this design flaw.

Forgotten Wall:

  • Replaced 3 corroded and protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts on Filth Infatuated – 2 of these bolts were totally loose, we think the expansion sleeves must have cracked. Again these were non stainless that were passed over during our 2010 work because the weren’t yet visibly rusted
  • Replaced the remaining 4 non stainless bolts on MEC.
  • Steel lower off biners were installed on the anchors of The Reacharound, Got Pull, Creepy Crawlers, Creeping Right, MEC, Low Impact, Filth Infatuated, and Trunk Monkey. Corroded Maillons were replaced on several of theses anchors as well.

Leave a Reply


  • 2017 Falcon Closure
    Effective Immediately – Falcon Closure. BC Parks staff and climber volunteer attempts have been attempting to locate the falcon nest in the Squamish Buttress/ Apron/ South Gully area this week. Their work along with additional climber reports (Thanks guys!) indicate that falcons have nested in the Lower...
    Read more
  • 2017 Climbing Season update: camping, parking and other issues
    There are several changes that are happening in and around Squamish for the 2017 Climbing Season, particularly with regard to camping and parking. Below we (the Squamish Access Society, SAS) breakdown the general issues (#vanlife, “wild” camping and parking) as well as updates to specific climbing areas....
    Read more
  • Mt Habrich via ferrata proposal
    Squamish Access Society learned recently of a proposal to build a Via Ferrata (“VF”) on Mt Habrich. The proponent is Stanley Yntema, a self-described “community organiser” based in Surrey, BC. Mr Yntema is not well-known to the Squamish climbing and mountaineering community and has not sought feedback...
    Read more
  • Smoke Bluffs management plan completed
    On 21st March Squamish council voted to adopt a new Management Plan for the Smoke Bluffs Park. Squamish Access Society took a lead role in the development of this plan over the last two years through its representation on the Smoke Bluffs Park Advisory Committee (“SBPAC”). SAS...
    Read more